" Starting Life with Your New Foal!"
This information sheet has been provided to give you some insight into what to expect when your new foal
arrives.
It should be treated as a guideline only, and your veterinarian should be consulted immediately if you have any
concerns about your new foal’s health so that the proper diagnosis and relevant treatment can be administered as
soon as possible.
Prior to Arrival at Their New Home:
Have a relationship with a veterinarian nearby that treats large animals and have their emergency number on
hand...
You never know when you may need it.
Your new foal may have traveled hundreds of miles, possibly with stops along the way. This is also a weaning
period for these babies - being apart from their dams for the first time. The trip will tire them out, they may be
depressed due to.
These are major changes in their short lives, and they may have some minor cuts or scrapes sustained while
traveling in a trailer with many other foals. Remember that the foals are transported “loose” in a trailer - (safer at
this age as they will find their own balance and a comfortable position to travel in.) Foals traveling to the
southern areas of the United States may experience additional stress as they will have to adjust to the warmer
climate. Keep in mind that these foals will adjust quite quickly to their new environments.
Understand that the foals may NOT be halter broke or easily handled when they arrive - they may have had almost
no handling at this point and it will take the individuals time and dedication to gain their trust.
Remember that these foals may not be familiar with people. For some, you may be their first actual contact with
anyone other than “Mom” or their buddies. Up until this time, any contact with people will have been done using a
chute or small paddock or just being caught to be wormed or medicated.
These foals are untrained and capable of causing injury to themselves if they feel they are being threatened.
They are born naturally, in large fields, some not even seeing much of people until they are “rounded-up” at 3
months of age and brought in for separation from their dams. The majority of farms use substantial board fencing
for handling of their horses and foals, therefore these foals are not familiar with wire or electric fencing and may
panic if exposed to it. Their short lives have been spent in the company of other horses and foals and once
separated upon arrival at their new homes, they may panic. Please try to plan ahead and ensure that your new
foal will have an inviting yet TOTALLY SAFE environment to enter into.
One thing we highly recommend is a companion of another equine for your new horse. Horses are herd animals
and no other animal be it a goat, dog, chicken or cow can substitute the need for equine company.
Equines need each other and can develop fatal ulcers, bad behaviors, and can even die from depression if isolated
from other equines. Consider that when making a purchase and have another horse available so the new horse
can feel safe and relaxed in its new home and environment.
Your Foal’s New Home:
Not enough importance can be placed on providing a safe and healthy home for your new foal. As these foals are
not yet used to being kept indoors, a small, properly fenced area would be ideal. This area should be sufficiently
large so that the foal has plenty of room to run and frolic, but small enough that catching the foal is possible. It is
important for the foal to be able to exercise adequately and to allow their bodies to develop properly. Do not
isolate foals from other horses or equine companionship. This can be a fatal mistake.
A shelter from the elements is a necessity: a run-in type shelter or stall in a barn is suitable providing it allows
shelter from wind, rain, snow and the heat of the sun. It should large enough to permit the foal to move around
easily and also take into consideration the number of horses/foals using the same structure. If you plan on
bringing your foal into a stall for periods of time, the stall should be of an adequate size that the foal can move
around freely, be solidly constructed and have all additions (feed tubs, waterers, etc.) safely and securely attached
and also you should put his companion horse in the same stall with him or at least allow him to have access
visually of the other horse.
Suitable fencing is VERY important. Fences should be strong, safely constructed and high enough (minimum 3
feet) to discourage jumping. There are several types of fencing available, most are acceptable. One or two strand
electric, barbed wire or page wire are NOT recommended.
If you have any concerns regarding fencing, ask your veterinarian or a reputable breeder in your area.
Remember also, that FRESH water, HAY and SALT should be available free choice at ALL times whether your foal is
turned out in a paddock or field or spending some time in a stall.
Health Concerns:
Your Veterinarian is your best resource to answer any questions or concerns regarding the health or condition of
your foal on arrival. The following data is provided for information only - your veterinarian IS the expert!
A quarantine period will allow you to get to know your foal and introduce yourself in their life. They will soon
realize that YOU are the source of food and companionship - this will become a very important part of their
acceptance of their new life.
Remember that all foals are different - some may accept your presence quite readily whereas others may be
resentful and afraid and will react as nature has taught them - with teeth and heels or simply by avoiding all
contact.
Find out what it is your foal likes enough to overcome these fears - food is usually a good start. Sometimes, a
good scratch is just the ticket. Be persistent but don’t overtax the foal by forcing your presence on them - they will
come around on their own time.
Foals are curious by nature and once they find that people aren’t the ogres the foals think they are, the
acceptance will come quite readily. TIME and PATIENCE is important. Each foal is an individual and the time it
takes for them to accept humans will vary accordingly. Foals housed individually tend to bond with people more
quickly than those who are in a group.
While in a new home situation, a general assessment of the condition and health of the foal can be done as early
detection of any illness is important. Make a visual assessment of the foal’s overall appearance - do they appear
sound? Are they as bright and attentive as is reasonable? Are there any cuts or scrapes that may need attention?
Also, monitor your foal’s intake of hay/pasture and any additional feeds they may accept. It may be advisable to
feed hay at this time so the amount eaten can be monitored. If possible, ensure that the foal is passing manure
and urinating normally. Manual water supplies such as buckets or troughs are recommended in place of automatic
waterers so that the water consumption can be watched.
Your Foals Feeding Program:
Remember that your foal has come from a completely different environment than their new home. They have
spent the first few months of life living with their dams in large open fields, depending first on the mare’s milk and
graduating to pasture. These foals may not have had grain in their diets so it should be introduced slowly and be
a feed suitable for foal consumption. It may take a few days for the foal to become accustomed to eating grain,
but they soon find the taste VERY likeable! Also take into consideration the weight and breed type of your foal
and feed accordingly. Draft foals will have somewhat different feed requirements than a light breed foal. Creep
feeding a 10% grain based feed is acceptable if the foal is under 1 year old.
Good quality hay is the most important part of a foal’s diet and is essential to proper growth. Ensure your foal has
sufficient hay offered - many people feed hay free choice as opposed to giving specific amounts. This is a better
option in our opinion as long as the hay is fresh, free of mold and dust and changed out often if not completely
consumed.
If you are unsure of the quality of your hay, invest in the small amount it costs to have it analyzed - it is money well
spent. A mixed type hay - timothy, grass, with some with alfalfa is recommended as it is usually well-balanced and
highly palatable for foals.
Grains, complete feeds and/or supplements are also an important part of your growing foal’s diet. There are many
opinions as to what type of feed your foal should be given. Minis do not do well on pelleted foal feed,(for digestive
reasons)and do much better on a high grain content(oat based) low corn based sweet feed combined with one or
many of the vast array of equine supplements that are available. If you are unfamiliar with the best feed to offer
your new foal,consult your Veterinarian, a reputable breeder in your area, equine nutritionist or a feed analyst that
may be affiliated with a local feed store. Remember to tell them you have minis.
Minis do not do well with pellets or corn based feeds.
Foals can eat several pounds a day and be ok.
A full grown mini needs to have feed adjusted according to their condition. A regular mini in good health and
condition would consume about 2 lbs total of grain a day preferably cut into two feedings.(am and pm). A thin or
pregnant mini would do well with up to 3 to 4 lbs and some sort of supplement.
Remember, a full grown mini can weigh up to 450 if its a large sized mini. Adult horses can eat up to 10% of their
weight in grain per day meaning a 400 lb mini as long as its not obese should get up to 4 lbs of feed.
Its better to feed 2lbs in the am and 2 lbs in the pm than all 4 lbs at once.
Hay is offered free choice all day and night.
Ensure that the ration is balanced, taking into consideration the makeup of your hay, and your environment. (A
foal living in the sunny south will need a different type of ration than one going into a Canadian winter.)
Remember to adjust your feed ration as your foal grows, monitoring his or her growth and joints routinely for signs
of any developmental issues which can happen with any youngster.
Also remember foals have thick coats and often look fatter than they really are. Feel through the hair coats to make
sure you do not feel ribs or a spine.
If you do feel ribs and or see a pot gut, your horse is probably wormy and malnourished.
You need to step up your feed program. Your horse should look sleek and fat and healthy. Anything other than
that and you have a problem.
Clean water should be available at all times and care taken to ensure that water containers be kept clean. With
the foals arriving in the pre-winter months, also ensure that extremely cold water is not presented (adding warm
water or use of a water heater may be necessary).
Salt should be provided at all times - a mineral salt lick is recommended. A trace mineral block is ideal or you may
want to add a mineral mix to the foal’s feed ration or its easier to just have a bock and allow free choice licking.
Ensuring the Health of Your Foal:
De-worming:
Your foal may or may not have been wormed prior to arriving at their new home. It is recommended that the foal
be wormed soon after their arrival (usually as soon as the foal can be handled safely). Your veterinarian can
recommend the best de-worming product to use - at this time usually a wide-spectrum type like any ivermectin
product is recommended.
Quest, with the active ingredient moxidectin, should NOT be used on miniature horses EVER(death can occur), and
wormers such as strongid or panacur have a high worm resistance and are not effective in killing the worms any
more.
De-worming your foal may prove tricky at first if you are using the syringe type products. Make sure if worming a
very small young foal you use a proper amount and do not allow the syringe to slip and over worm your foal.
Your new foal most likely weighs between 30 and 70 lbs if under year old.
Commercial Ivermectin wormers are often in 250lb increments and not designed for tiny miniature foals. You might
ask your vet to make you up some syringes for the proper weight of your foal with a liquid ivermectin until your foal
reaches yearling age at which time you can give him the 250 lb dose from the commercial ivermectin you choose to
use. Your foal may only weigh 100 lbs at a year old but ivermectine is still safe to over dose in this range and the
foal will be ok.
Worming is recommended every other month or every 8 weeks minimum.
It is a critical part in caring for your horse as worms can be the number one killer and cause of colic and other
health problems. Simply dewormimg on a regular basis can insure a long happy and healthy life. Ignoring this
minor health care step can cost your horse dearly.
Rotation deworming is not advised as over the counter dewormers besides ivermectin have been proven
ineffective in killing equine parasites.
Ivermectin is the only drug on the market with safety and no worm resistance. There are several name brand
dewormers that have ivermectin as their main ingredient.
Be aware and read labels.
Once and maybe twice a year you should use an ivermectin product that also kills tapeworms.. Ivermectin gold and
Equimax are excellent choices.
Vaccinations:
Consult your veterinarian for their recommendations, but it is not unusual to wait administer vaccinations until the
foal has completed the quarantine period from weaning and being in his new home which would be aprox 30 days
from weaning.
Administering vaccinations upon arrival could actually mask any ailments they are designed to combat and often the
horses are just weaned and are still carrying immunity from their mothers and are not susceptible to absorb
vaccines until aprox 30 days after weaning. Also, as the foal will already be under stress and tired from their
travels, inoculations may affect them negatively.
Shipping Fever:
This ailment is quite prevalent in young foals who have been exposed to the rigors of a long trip. The symptoms
displayed are similar to those of a cold: discharge from the nose, lethargy and often a dry cough. The main cause
of shipping fever is stress and the respiratory environment in a transport trailer. Besides the long trip, your foal
has gone through the stress of an abrupt weaning process and changes in environment. If you suspect your foal
has shipping fever, consult your veterinarian promptly. If left untreated, fluid can settle in the lungs causing
pneumonia. Of course your foal will be tired and somewhat depressed after their long trip, but if these symptoms
persist more than a few days or are accompanied by those symptoms listed above - call your veterinarian.
Strangles:
This ailment used to be uncommon, but with the increase in transportation of horses from infected regions and the
negligence of some horse owners/transporters, is becoming increasingly common. It is a highly contagious disease
characterized by inflammation of the nasal and mucous membranes, and with abscesses forming in the lymph
nodes (lower jaw area). Initially, the foal will show signs of increased lethargy, difficulty eating/swallowing, a thick
nasal discharge and sometimes drooling caused by the inability to swallow easily. The abscesses will enlarge as
the infection manifests itself, eventually breaking open to release large amounts of a thick, creamy pus. The
incubation period of strangles (between the time the foal was affected and the onset of visible clinical signs) is
between 4-14 days but can also be as little as 2 days, and as long as 21 days. There is also a fever which
develops as the abscesses enlarge.
Once the abscesses rupture, recovery is usually rapid and complete within a couple of weeks - although there is a
very slight chance that other abscesses may develop. It is best to let the disease run it’s course, ensuring that
the foal is monitored as closely as possible and in as comfortable an environment as possible. If the abscesses do
not rupture on their own, your veterinarian may recommend intervention in the form of hot compresses or in
extreme cases, lancing.
As this disease is VERY contagious, extreme care must be taken to control the cleanliness of all items the foal
comes in contact with - washing any implements, brushes, etc. very well and even disinfecting them. Bedding
should be disposed of in a secured area or even better, be burned. Once all symptoms have disappeared, the foal
will remain contagious for at least 3 weeks but a further quarantine period of up to 6 weeks is recommended. It is
important to note that humans and pets are largely responsible for the spread of the strangles virus within a farm;
humans carrying the very persistent virus on theory clothing and on their shoes, and pets, by walking through the
infected area, to where the other horses on the premises may be. If your foal develops strangles, DO NOT go from
the foal’s quarantine area without changing your clothing and either changing footwear or dipping your shoes in a
strong disinfectant solution.
“Bastard Strangles” are basically a mutated form of strangles, rare but usually fatal. They are caused when the
abscesses form in other parts of the body - lymph nodes in the intestinal tract, lungs, kidneys, etc. Rupture of the
affected nodes can cause life-threatening pleurisies or peritonitis (inflammation of the membrane covering the
lungs and lining the chest cavity, or inflammation of the membrane lining the abdomen and abdominal
membranes). As these abscesses are not visible, treatment cannot be administered quickly and adequately
enough to aid in the foal’s recovery. Fortunately, incidents of “Bastard Strangles” are rare.
Please note that giving your foal the Strangles inter-nasal vaccine upon their arrival could actually encourage the
onset of “Bastard Strangles” by oppressing the disease within the confines of the body if the strangles bacteria is
present in their system. Administering antibiotic treatment as strangles is just developing may also cause
“Bastard Strangles”
ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR VETERINARIAN prior to administering any treatment to your foal if you suspect he/she is ill.
Consult Your Veterinarian for Further Information.
* * * * *
While we have endeavored include everything in assembling this fact sheet, there may be questions you have
about your foal’s situation, which we have not covered.
Never hesitate to contact us with your questions - Stacy Brown 1 706 318 3013 but between 9 am and 5 pm
please.
Emergencies or after hours questions need to be directed to your local veterinarian which you should have their
number already on hand.
As purchasers ourselves, we can appreciate how overwhelmed you may feel with a new foal. We want your
placement process to go smoothly, and your foal’s transition to his/her new environment to be as comfortable and
stress-free as possible. Purchase of a new foal is a very rewarding experience and we want to make it as
successful as possible for you and your foal.
Thank you for your purchase and enjoy your new horse. We hope to do business with you in the future.
This information sheet has been provided to give you some insight into what to expect when your new foal
arrives.
It should be treated as a guideline only, and your veterinarian should be consulted immediately if you have any
concerns about your new foal’s health so that the proper diagnosis and relevant treatment can be administered as
soon as possible.
Prior to Arrival at Their New Home:
Have a relationship with a veterinarian nearby that treats large animals and have their emergency number on
hand...
You never know when you may need it.
Your new foal may have traveled hundreds of miles, possibly with stops along the way. This is also a weaning
period for these babies - being apart from their dams for the first time. The trip will tire them out, they may be
depressed due to.
These are major changes in their short lives, and they may have some minor cuts or scrapes sustained while
traveling in a trailer with many other foals. Remember that the foals are transported “loose” in a trailer - (safer at
this age as they will find their own balance and a comfortable position to travel in.) Foals traveling to the
southern areas of the United States may experience additional stress as they will have to adjust to the warmer
climate. Keep in mind that these foals will adjust quite quickly to their new environments.
Understand that the foals may NOT be halter broke or easily handled when they arrive - they may have had almost
no handling at this point and it will take the individuals time and dedication to gain their trust.
Remember that these foals may not be familiar with people. For some, you may be their first actual contact with
anyone other than “Mom” or their buddies. Up until this time, any contact with people will have been done using a
chute or small paddock or just being caught to be wormed or medicated.
These foals are untrained and capable of causing injury to themselves if they feel they are being threatened.
They are born naturally, in large fields, some not even seeing much of people until they are “rounded-up” at 3
months of age and brought in for separation from their dams. The majority of farms use substantial board fencing
for handling of their horses and foals, therefore these foals are not familiar with wire or electric fencing and may
panic if exposed to it. Their short lives have been spent in the company of other horses and foals and once
separated upon arrival at their new homes, they may panic. Please try to plan ahead and ensure that your new
foal will have an inviting yet TOTALLY SAFE environment to enter into.
One thing we highly recommend is a companion of another equine for your new horse. Horses are herd animals
and no other animal be it a goat, dog, chicken or cow can substitute the need for equine company.
Equines need each other and can develop fatal ulcers, bad behaviors, and can even die from depression if isolated
from other equines. Consider that when making a purchase and have another horse available so the new horse
can feel safe and relaxed in its new home and environment.
Your Foal’s New Home:
Not enough importance can be placed on providing a safe and healthy home for your new foal. As these foals are
not yet used to being kept indoors, a small, properly fenced area would be ideal. This area should be sufficiently
large so that the foal has plenty of room to run and frolic, but small enough that catching the foal is possible. It is
important for the foal to be able to exercise adequately and to allow their bodies to develop properly. Do not
isolate foals from other horses or equine companionship. This can be a fatal mistake.
A shelter from the elements is a necessity: a run-in type shelter or stall in a barn is suitable providing it allows
shelter from wind, rain, snow and the heat of the sun. It should large enough to permit the foal to move around
easily and also take into consideration the number of horses/foals using the same structure. If you plan on
bringing your foal into a stall for periods of time, the stall should be of an adequate size that the foal can move
around freely, be solidly constructed and have all additions (feed tubs, waterers, etc.) safely and securely attached
and also you should put his companion horse in the same stall with him or at least allow him to have access
visually of the other horse.
Suitable fencing is VERY important. Fences should be strong, safely constructed and high enough (minimum 3
feet) to discourage jumping. There are several types of fencing available, most are acceptable. One or two strand
electric, barbed wire or page wire are NOT recommended.
If you have any concerns regarding fencing, ask your veterinarian or a reputable breeder in your area.
Remember also, that FRESH water, HAY and SALT should be available free choice at ALL times whether your foal is
turned out in a paddock or field or spending some time in a stall.
Health Concerns:
Your Veterinarian is your best resource to answer any questions or concerns regarding the health or condition of
your foal on arrival. The following data is provided for information only - your veterinarian IS the expert!
A quarantine period will allow you to get to know your foal and introduce yourself in their life. They will soon
realize that YOU are the source of food and companionship - this will become a very important part of their
acceptance of their new life.
Remember that all foals are different - some may accept your presence quite readily whereas others may be
resentful and afraid and will react as nature has taught them - with teeth and heels or simply by avoiding all
contact.
Find out what it is your foal likes enough to overcome these fears - food is usually a good start. Sometimes, a
good scratch is just the ticket. Be persistent but don’t overtax the foal by forcing your presence on them - they will
come around on their own time.
Foals are curious by nature and once they find that people aren’t the ogres the foals think they are, the
acceptance will come quite readily. TIME and PATIENCE is important. Each foal is an individual and the time it
takes for them to accept humans will vary accordingly. Foals housed individually tend to bond with people more
quickly than those who are in a group.
While in a new home situation, a general assessment of the condition and health of the foal can be done as early
detection of any illness is important. Make a visual assessment of the foal’s overall appearance - do they appear
sound? Are they as bright and attentive as is reasonable? Are there any cuts or scrapes that may need attention?
Also, monitor your foal’s intake of hay/pasture and any additional feeds they may accept. It may be advisable to
feed hay at this time so the amount eaten can be monitored. If possible, ensure that the foal is passing manure
and urinating normally. Manual water supplies such as buckets or troughs are recommended in place of automatic
waterers so that the water consumption can be watched.
Your Foals Feeding Program:
Remember that your foal has come from a completely different environment than their new home. They have
spent the first few months of life living with their dams in large open fields, depending first on the mare’s milk and
graduating to pasture. These foals may not have had grain in their diets so it should be introduced slowly and be
a feed suitable for foal consumption. It may take a few days for the foal to become accustomed to eating grain,
but they soon find the taste VERY likeable! Also take into consideration the weight and breed type of your foal
and feed accordingly. Draft foals will have somewhat different feed requirements than a light breed foal. Creep
feeding a 10% grain based feed is acceptable if the foal is under 1 year old.
Good quality hay is the most important part of a foal’s diet and is essential to proper growth. Ensure your foal has
sufficient hay offered - many people feed hay free choice as opposed to giving specific amounts. This is a better
option in our opinion as long as the hay is fresh, free of mold and dust and changed out often if not completely
consumed.
If you are unsure of the quality of your hay, invest in the small amount it costs to have it analyzed - it is money well
spent. A mixed type hay - timothy, grass, with some with alfalfa is recommended as it is usually well-balanced and
highly palatable for foals.
Grains, complete feeds and/or supplements are also an important part of your growing foal’s diet. There are many
opinions as to what type of feed your foal should be given. Minis do not do well on pelleted foal feed,(for digestive
reasons)and do much better on a high grain content(oat based) low corn based sweet feed combined with one or
many of the vast array of equine supplements that are available. If you are unfamiliar with the best feed to offer
your new foal,consult your Veterinarian, a reputable breeder in your area, equine nutritionist or a feed analyst that
may be affiliated with a local feed store. Remember to tell them you have minis.
Minis do not do well with pellets or corn based feeds.
Foals can eat several pounds a day and be ok.
A full grown mini needs to have feed adjusted according to their condition. A regular mini in good health and
condition would consume about 2 lbs total of grain a day preferably cut into two feedings.(am and pm). A thin or
pregnant mini would do well with up to 3 to 4 lbs and some sort of supplement.
Remember, a full grown mini can weigh up to 450 if its a large sized mini. Adult horses can eat up to 10% of their
weight in grain per day meaning a 400 lb mini as long as its not obese should get up to 4 lbs of feed.
Its better to feed 2lbs in the am and 2 lbs in the pm than all 4 lbs at once.
Hay is offered free choice all day and night.
Ensure that the ration is balanced, taking into consideration the makeup of your hay, and your environment. (A
foal living in the sunny south will need a different type of ration than one going into a Canadian winter.)
Remember to adjust your feed ration as your foal grows, monitoring his or her growth and joints routinely for signs
of any developmental issues which can happen with any youngster.
Also remember foals have thick coats and often look fatter than they really are. Feel through the hair coats to make
sure you do not feel ribs or a spine.
If you do feel ribs and or see a pot gut, your horse is probably wormy and malnourished.
You need to step up your feed program. Your horse should look sleek and fat and healthy. Anything other than
that and you have a problem.
Clean water should be available at all times and care taken to ensure that water containers be kept clean. With
the foals arriving in the pre-winter months, also ensure that extremely cold water is not presented (adding warm
water or use of a water heater may be necessary).
Salt should be provided at all times - a mineral salt lick is recommended. A trace mineral block is ideal or you may
want to add a mineral mix to the foal’s feed ration or its easier to just have a bock and allow free choice licking.
Ensuring the Health of Your Foal:
De-worming:
Your foal may or may not have been wormed prior to arriving at their new home. It is recommended that the foal
be wormed soon after their arrival (usually as soon as the foal can be handled safely). Your veterinarian can
recommend the best de-worming product to use - at this time usually a wide-spectrum type like any ivermectin
product is recommended.
Quest, with the active ingredient moxidectin, should NOT be used on miniature horses EVER(death can occur), and
wormers such as strongid or panacur have a high worm resistance and are not effective in killing the worms any
more.
De-worming your foal may prove tricky at first if you are using the syringe type products. Make sure if worming a
very small young foal you use a proper amount and do not allow the syringe to slip and over worm your foal.
Your new foal most likely weighs between 30 and 70 lbs if under year old.
Commercial Ivermectin wormers are often in 250lb increments and not designed for tiny miniature foals. You might
ask your vet to make you up some syringes for the proper weight of your foal with a liquid ivermectin until your foal
reaches yearling age at which time you can give him the 250 lb dose from the commercial ivermectin you choose to
use. Your foal may only weigh 100 lbs at a year old but ivermectine is still safe to over dose in this range and the
foal will be ok.
Worming is recommended every other month or every 8 weeks minimum.
It is a critical part in caring for your horse as worms can be the number one killer and cause of colic and other
health problems. Simply dewormimg on a regular basis can insure a long happy and healthy life. Ignoring this
minor health care step can cost your horse dearly.
Rotation deworming is not advised as over the counter dewormers besides ivermectin have been proven
ineffective in killing equine parasites.
Ivermectin is the only drug on the market with safety and no worm resistance. There are several name brand
dewormers that have ivermectin as their main ingredient.
Be aware and read labels.
Once and maybe twice a year you should use an ivermectin product that also kills tapeworms.. Ivermectin gold and
Equimax are excellent choices.
Vaccinations:
Consult your veterinarian for their recommendations, but it is not unusual to wait administer vaccinations until the
foal has completed the quarantine period from weaning and being in his new home which would be aprox 30 days
from weaning.
Administering vaccinations upon arrival could actually mask any ailments they are designed to combat and often the
horses are just weaned and are still carrying immunity from their mothers and are not susceptible to absorb
vaccines until aprox 30 days after weaning. Also, as the foal will already be under stress and tired from their
travels, inoculations may affect them negatively.
Shipping Fever:
This ailment is quite prevalent in young foals who have been exposed to the rigors of a long trip. The symptoms
displayed are similar to those of a cold: discharge from the nose, lethargy and often a dry cough. The main cause
of shipping fever is stress and the respiratory environment in a transport trailer. Besides the long trip, your foal
has gone through the stress of an abrupt weaning process and changes in environment. If you suspect your foal
has shipping fever, consult your veterinarian promptly. If left untreated, fluid can settle in the lungs causing
pneumonia. Of course your foal will be tired and somewhat depressed after their long trip, but if these symptoms
persist more than a few days or are accompanied by those symptoms listed above - call your veterinarian.
Strangles:
This ailment used to be uncommon, but with the increase in transportation of horses from infected regions and the
negligence of some horse owners/transporters, is becoming increasingly common. It is a highly contagious disease
characterized by inflammation of the nasal and mucous membranes, and with abscesses forming in the lymph
nodes (lower jaw area). Initially, the foal will show signs of increased lethargy, difficulty eating/swallowing, a thick
nasal discharge and sometimes drooling caused by the inability to swallow easily. The abscesses will enlarge as
the infection manifests itself, eventually breaking open to release large amounts of a thick, creamy pus. The
incubation period of strangles (between the time the foal was affected and the onset of visible clinical signs) is
between 4-14 days but can also be as little as 2 days, and as long as 21 days. There is also a fever which
develops as the abscesses enlarge.
Once the abscesses rupture, recovery is usually rapid and complete within a couple of weeks - although there is a
very slight chance that other abscesses may develop. It is best to let the disease run it’s course, ensuring that
the foal is monitored as closely as possible and in as comfortable an environment as possible. If the abscesses do
not rupture on their own, your veterinarian may recommend intervention in the form of hot compresses or in
extreme cases, lancing.
As this disease is VERY contagious, extreme care must be taken to control the cleanliness of all items the foal
comes in contact with - washing any implements, brushes, etc. very well and even disinfecting them. Bedding
should be disposed of in a secured area or even better, be burned. Once all symptoms have disappeared, the foal
will remain contagious for at least 3 weeks but a further quarantine period of up to 6 weeks is recommended. It is
important to note that humans and pets are largely responsible for the spread of the strangles virus within a farm;
humans carrying the very persistent virus on theory clothing and on their shoes, and pets, by walking through the
infected area, to where the other horses on the premises may be. If your foal develops strangles, DO NOT go from
the foal’s quarantine area without changing your clothing and either changing footwear or dipping your shoes in a
strong disinfectant solution.
“Bastard Strangles” are basically a mutated form of strangles, rare but usually fatal. They are caused when the
abscesses form in other parts of the body - lymph nodes in the intestinal tract, lungs, kidneys, etc. Rupture of the
affected nodes can cause life-threatening pleurisies or peritonitis (inflammation of the membrane covering the
lungs and lining the chest cavity, or inflammation of the membrane lining the abdomen and abdominal
membranes). As these abscesses are not visible, treatment cannot be administered quickly and adequately
enough to aid in the foal’s recovery. Fortunately, incidents of “Bastard Strangles” are rare.
Please note that giving your foal the Strangles inter-nasal vaccine upon their arrival could actually encourage the
onset of “Bastard Strangles” by oppressing the disease within the confines of the body if the strangles bacteria is
present in their system. Administering antibiotic treatment as strangles is just developing may also cause
“Bastard Strangles”
ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR VETERINARIAN prior to administering any treatment to your foal if you suspect he/she is ill.
Consult Your Veterinarian for Further Information.
* * * * *
While we have endeavored include everything in assembling this fact sheet, there may be questions you have
about your foal’s situation, which we have not covered.
Never hesitate to contact us with your questions - Stacy Brown 1 706 318 3013 but between 9 am and 5 pm
please.
Emergencies or after hours questions need to be directed to your local veterinarian which you should have their
number already on hand.
As purchasers ourselves, we can appreciate how overwhelmed you may feel with a new foal. We want your
placement process to go smoothly, and your foal’s transition to his/her new environment to be as comfortable and
stress-free as possible. Purchase of a new foal is a very rewarding experience and we want to make it as
successful as possible for you and your foal.
Thank you for your purchase and enjoy your new horse. We hope to do business with you in the future.
| Stacy Brown SMBS Miniatures located in Cleveland Ga. Just outside Helen Specializing in pinto and overos smbrown@windstream.net 1(706)318-3013 |
